How One Can Change A Seat Occupancy Sensor

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This challenge has been a long time coming for me. Nearly a yr ago I left my windows down throughout a fairly spectacular thunderstorm (unintentionally pressed the unlock button on my key in my pocket whereas I was strolling away from the automotive and both windows and the sunroof opened), and resulting from some relatively drastic measures on my part to dry out the automobile the one lasting injury was that I now had a seatbelt and airbag warning light on my dashboard. I used to be fairly quickly ready to find out that these lights have been being caused by a defective passenger occupancy sensor. Sadly, BMW doesn't sell just the sensor, however slightly your entire bottom seat cushion for a cool $1200. Properly I did not need to do this. So I managed to make it by many a month with these annoying warning lights until at some point I occurred upon a listing on a salvage automotive elements site that was promoting a standalone seat sensor! I snatched up the half after which spent a whole day switching them out. In researching learn how to get into the seats I used to be unable to find a lot of anything useful on this forum so I figured I should write up this DIY to help others out. 1. Take away the seat (duh). You will use the T50 bit to remove all 4 screws holding the seat down. As soon as loose, go to the trunk and disconnect the battery. Again in the cabin, push the chair back so you possibly can see underneath and disconnect the yellow wiring harness. There is a black tab on the aspect which you can match a small screwdriver in. Pull that tab out so far as it is going to go, then pull out the wiring harness. There is a separate wire connector on high too: squeeze the sides to launch it and disconnect that too. Now pull the seat out of the automobile. This is less complicated if you happen to additionally take the headrest off. 2. Now you're going to have to take away the plastic cover on the righthand facet of the seat that has the seat controls on it. This piece is held on with 5 plastic tabs: 3 are seen on the bottom of the piece and a couple of are hidden inside close to the highest. I used to be in a position to get all but the righthand inside tab using simply my arms. To get that final tab I needed to bend a hook form into a piece of thick wire and fish that through to the tab and pull the tab while pulling up on the entire piece. That was tough. Once off, you may see the way to controls are wired up, simply unplug them so you possibly can remove the trim solely. 3. As soon as the outer plastic trim is off, you'll be confronted with a second plastic piece. To remove this there's just one bolt (T30) and you then simply need to wiggle it round till it pops off. There are some wires connected to this piece with a plastic rivet which does not look like it is meant to return off so I left this piece nonetheless partially hooked up to the seat. 4. Subsequent, there's one other plastic trim piece on the opposite aspect of the seat on the back corner. Use the T20 bit to take away the screw, and pull the piece off. 5. There's now only one last piece of trim left, and it is a ache. It is the lower plastic piece on the front of the chair. You may see that there are three attachment points. The outer two are simple: just depress the outward dealing with tab with a small screwdriver and pull outward on the piece. They will pop out. The center attachment level is more difficult as a result of the tab you'd need to press in is actually going through inward in direction of the seat so you cannot get to it. You'll be able to, however, use a small screwdriver and put the head inside the attachment level, angling it so that it catches on the tab on the inside, and pull the piece downward. It will come off ultimately. 4. Now it is time to start removing the leather-based! The purpose of eradicating all this plastic trim was to be in a position to simply and totally remove all the seat cushion. Observe how all around the seat the leather-based is stitched to this plastic lip. Now that we've removed all the trim, you can pull this plastic lip off of its hold on the seat body. There's one long piece for peatix.com the complete entrance, one medium piece within the back, and two quick items, one on both back facet of the chair. Also be sure you undo the little bits on the again corners where the leather-based is held by a plastic button and is stretched over a steel nub. Now we will pull the again flap by the hole in between the higher and decrease halves of the chair after which, from the again forward, pull the cushion up. There's just one final point of attachment: just earlier than the leg extension there is a plastic rib that's hooked up to the seat body. This rib is just held in by some metallic tabs, you can start on one finish and pull up and it'll come out. 5. Now for the true fun part: we have to take away the leather from the foam cushion so that we can get on the occupancy sensor. On the underside of the cushion, beginning from the back, you may see many steel hogties. I used a pair of pliers to remove them. Just pinch the ring and switch it till the ends are facing you, then pull them apart and take away the ring. There are four on the skin of the cushion to take away. Then on the inside you may have to take away a bunch more. I did eleven rings in complete, I feel. Once you get get deep enough between the foam and the leather-based, you may absolutely take away the previous sensor. It's glued in on the front and on both side bolsters. 6. Put in your new sensor! I glued mine again in with some Gorilla Glue Gel. Be careful as a result of not a lot seems to follow that foam. I in all probability went through 4-5 different glues earlier than I found the Gorilla Glue. 7. It is all downhill from right here. Now it's worthwhile to reattach the leather to the foam. To do that, I used zip ties. Just put them in the precise spots the place you eliminated the metal rings. For among the more difficult components to get a zip tie in place, I used to be in a position to push my steel wire by means of the hole and use it as a guide for the zip tie. 8. Reattach that sucker again to the seat frame. Nothing too troublesome here, simply take it slow and go in the reverse from before. It will all match. Remember to plug in your new seat sensor to the chair. 9. Reinstall the chair. General this challenge took me about 6-eight hours. Removing the plastic trim is troublesome, eradicating the hog rings is a pain, and getting the leather-based reattached to the foam takes time. That said, it is all fully doable with minimal instruments. I've written this up as greatest I can, but I'm positive I not noted a number of steps.